Autumn is my favorite time of year. Maybe it's because it's so dramatic when all the colors change. Or because the temperature creeps down to zero and the air becomes fresh and clear and the frost can sprinkle the mountain with diamonds. That the darkness will return and promise rest for nature and mankind. Perhaps most of all because this beautiful, crisp time is so incredibly short. Then a long, drawn-out late fall continues in anticipation of snow, and I give less for that.

Getting out and hiking during this time is one of the best things I can do! So this year my cousin Sara and I planned a trip to Sarek in September. We are both self-employed in guiding and outdoor life and have a lot in common and are used to being outside. Unfortunately, we live far apart so we rarely see each other, but to be able to go on an adventure with the dream company she is: gold! The goal of our hike is NJUT which we define as bringing good food, seeing beautiful places, taking our time, indulging in coffee breaks and not forcing long distances just because.

The idea was ready for a long time but the last adjustment of the route we made while we started walking. Because Sara had walked here before when it was my first time.

With start and finish in Saltoluokta, the 'transportation distance' to where we want to go will be a little longer - but logistically easy to be able to park the car in one place and return there.

Day 1 we start late afternoon, after 17.00 with heavy backpacks. (How heavy? None of us weighed the pack either before or after the tour, it's not something I usually do) So after 4km of uphill we are happy and set up camp. Look at the reindeer that go by, eat tur-tacos and drink beer. 

Day 2 we start with a long morning, coffee, yoga and peace and quiet. Then the route continues south to Sitojaure, 16km easy but monotonous hike along the King's Trail. I have walked here a few times and have a hard time enjoying what is nice - just get bored. So we walk on, Sara feels her packing which is probably heavier than what the backpack is adapted for and therefore shakes. I usually get tired in my feet from walking far in boots but a long lunch break in the sun where we take a short nap where we sit in the shelter is the enjoyment of the day.

The goal is to get a ride from Anna and Lars who run the boat traffic along the King's Trail in Sitojaure all the way to Rinim at the west end of the lake. It does not work out with a boat in the evening for various reasons so we camp and wait for a boat the next morning! Now my body tells me that it is TIRED and I feel a sore throat (which is the body's way of telling me to rest).

On day 3 we wake up like new people after 10 hours in the sleeping bag, the sore throat is gone and we start the journey with a boat trip. Nice conversations and a nice boat ride later, we stand in the sun on the beach in Rinim and reasonably start today's hike with a coffee break in the sun.

Then an unmarked path winds between Nammásj and Dágartjåhkkå and further into Basstavágge. A bit wet but relatively easy to walk. The pasta lunch never tastes as good as with a mountain view!

Basstavágge offers a little of this and that. On the south side of Basstajåhkå we either have to deal with shoulder-high willow thickets, cliffs and rocky slopes. In between, flat and fine mountain heath. I have plenty of energy and think the variation is quite fun, Sara has it harder and it takes on her energy.

The first ford of the trip went over the jok that comes down from Skájdásjvágge and there was significantly more water than we expected. We walked along, had a refreshing coffee and then went over to the chosen place. Boots on but without socks and soles in. Despite a pole in each hand and small calm steps, the adrenaline pumped when the current was about to pull us over. Another, slightly smaller waddle later, it was clearly camp time! About 10 km covered today.

On day 4 we are woken up by the tent beating in the wind that has twisted a little during the night and I go out and adjust the storm lines. Today we walk without having any time or clock to adapt to. We set goals on the map and in the terrain for how far we want to go and let the weather and energy set the pace.

We continue in Basstavágge and have soon passed the highest point of the valley. Wind, rain and low clouds in combination with climbing over wet and slippery rocky scree are far down on my list of enjoyable moments. Two more calves and wet feet to boot. But after a few hours, on the way out of Basstavágge, we again get rice-covered mountain heaths and I'm home again! Here Sara has had a great morning while I had a tougher time.

With a view of Sarvatjåhkkås snow-capped peaks, the sun breaks through and once out in the valley at Bierikjávvre and Bielajávrátja it is so beautiful that it hurts! Easy hike on the slope south of the lakes, rounding Bielatjåhkkå and sensing the goal of the day, the slope up to Snávvávagge. What a shame! Here, the energy was already at a standstill and winding up the narrow path, next to a steep, was in many ways a near-death experience. We often wondered who had thought that this was a good idea to go here in the first place...

The relief of reaching the crest and then camping by the lake! An icy swim was good for body and soul as well as the cup of tea before dinner.

about 14 km.

Day 5 is chilly when we wake up and the wind bites us. Rocky but easy walking in the high valley before going down again, towards Rapadalen. The view! It took a coffee break to sit and stare.

The weather looks to be wet and it starts to drizzle on the way down. Lunch and break when we reach the bottom of the valley. Hot soup in a thermos and sandwiches - such an easy and good meal out! I think it's best with homemade and dried but a bag of hot cups is also good.

After lunch we start the longest 7 km I've ever walked. It is gray and wet, we only see muddy path, wet bog and birches. Our spirits are not high, although we resort to various tricks to keep our spirits up. For some reason we don't change into rainwear after lunch - feels like it's raining too little? So we get wetter and wetter until there is no point in wearing rainwear. By the time we reach our destination for the day, just before Alep Vássjájågåsj, we are soaked, tired and uninspired to say the least. Sara said that once we get into the tent, I won't go out again until tomorrow!

We comfort ourselves with a dry change of clothes and a hot cup of tea before dinner (mushroom risotto and a small bottle of rosé) and spend the evening in the sleeping bag with a book.

In total, we walk about 12 km today.

On day 6 I wake up with yesterday's discouraged feeling but thankfully it cracks up during the morning and the wind dries most of the wet! Here we are between the choice to go up the mountain and continue above Rapadalen or continue kneading down, we land in the former. Good thing it was! Because once out of the forest, the mood rises again and despite a disappearing path and a bit of a brave climb, it's nice to walk on the reeds and the weather is mild, sunny and with a light breeze.

Lulep Vássjájågåsj is deep down with easy wading, then up on the plate about 5 easy kilometers away towards Ridok where we camp with powerful views.

Shortly after 03 Sara wakes me up "Now put in the lenses Amira and come out" Had hoped for a starry night with northern lights which we now had above us! For a little while we lay down, furred and with sleeping pads, outside the tent and watch the sky before it gets too cold and it starts to get light.

We hike about 10 km.

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Day 7 we sleep in! Don't get up until 9 and start around 11. Along the end of Gierdogiestjåhkkå it looks really rocky on the map but to our relief there is less rock and easier to travel than we expected. Sara, who has had a little pain in her body from time to time, has to take a painkiller today to make the pain in her foot go away. We make sure to pause and take it easy when we walk.

Up to Skierffe we go without the heavy backpacks, only a jacket, water and first aid can come along. And a camera of course. Because that view is not going for hacks when the north side of the cliff plunges straight down into the valley and Rapaselet winds and meanders below.

At the top we met two other hikers who soon went down so we got the view for ourselves.

After that, we start to figure out how to walk the last stretch which is now not so terribly long. The boat over Sitojaure leaves at 08.15 and 17.15, so we will go all the way down to Svinje where we can take the morning boat or stay earlier and make an extra turn down to Aktse and go in the evening. Sara's bad foot had to decide and we stop at some small lakes. Later in the evening, with info that the boat the next day leaves an hour later than expected and that the weather the day after tomorrow promises rain / snow and gray weather. We do not want a full day on the straight stretch back to Salto. It will be the morning boat anyway!

Total about 12 km.

On day 8 we set the alarm for 4.20 and at 5.15 we are ready to go. The sun hasn't risen yet, it's below zero and the frost is glittering everywhere. I'm so glad we forced ourselves to get up, because this is the most beautiful thing I know. Passing a large group of reindeer resting for the night just as the sun is coming over the crest.

8 km down to Svinje and there we have coffee, porridge and even a swim. I have rarely felt cleaner!

Boat ride across the lake, another coffee break and peek into Sitojaurestugan. There we run into a Finnish woman who will then be Sara's ride on the way home to southern Finland.

Then we have about 20 km left, along the King's Trail, the straight stretch that I think is such a pain. We have not decided that we will continue all the way, we have time to spare, but when the sauna and crawling into a bed looms...

A total of about 28 km later we stack into the station where I get to hug a happy puppy, we have a beer and get to eat a bang-good dinner.

A NJUT trip absolutely, but certainly not only... I am incredibly grateful and happy for this week and look forward to more trips in Sarek. Maybe there will be a guided girl tour here in the future!

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